A La Orden! The Food Scene in Cartagena, Colombia — Carry On, from Amanda Kellner Klein

Upon arriving in Rafael Núñez International Airport you may realize quickly that a typical response to gracias in Colombia is not de nada, as one might expect, but a la orden! Having studied Spanish for 10 years and having lived in and traveled to many países hispanohablantes, I understood this as "at your service!" Looking back on my trip with Joe, my boyfriend, to Cartagena in March of 2017, this phrase reappears as a fitting lens through which to remember the culture of food and community of this incredible place.

A cross section of Caribbean colonial town and humming South American city, Cartagena is the type of mid size urban playground that offers variety in taste and restaurant atmosphere alike. If Buenos Aires is the Paris of Latin America, Cartagena is somewhere between up-and-coming Austin and cool kid (if old school) Charleston. At a fraction of the price.

Consider the ceviche. Volunteering in Peru in 2011 I was frequently reminded by proud locals that ceviche is the national Peruvian dish. Chile and Ecuador also lay claim to their versions of this seafood creation. After tasting several iterations of ceviche in Cartagena, I believe there may be another contender for the greatest one around.

El Boliche Cebichería

After a short taxi from the airport we dropped our Away luggage at the Airbnb and hit the cobblestone streets in search of food. We were told that in the Ciudad Amurallada (old walled city) of Cartagena, everything is walkable - a delightfully true statement. A two minute walk down Calle 38 with vibrantly painted buildings we landed at the closest open sit down restaurant, El Boliche. I for one was amused to be eating at a restaurant named the Argentine slang word for "nightclub," no DJ in sight. It was too warm for us to enjoy the plant adorned outdoor patio so we were seated inside next to the window with a cold Club Colombia Dorada beer and air conditioning, ready to eat. We ordered a coconut ceviche and a spicy version. Both delicious, both presented in artful, if small, portions. ~46 USD for two plates and drinks.

We did learn a valuable lesson here, one that we have taken with us on all trips since: Judge the costliness of an establishment by the price of their local/national beer. The beer was priced higher at El Boliche than anywhere else we ate on the trip and this became our benchmark.

La Cevichería

It took us three attempts and a test of our patience to get into La Cevichería. Anthony Bourdain ate here and apparently put it on the map globally as one of the best eateries in the city. The first two attempts were made at reasonable lunch and dinner times when the line to wait for a table extended endlessly around the block. We returned on Wednesday afternoon around 4PM and got lucky. The decor has a distinctly by-the-sea vibe and this spot had better branding than most of the other local places in town. "La Cevicheria" is etched on every plate touting their international acclaim. If you can handle spice, go for The Devil's Shrimps and for a true South American encompassing dish, the Peruvian Fish Ceviche. Reasonably priced and well, well worth the wait. ~52 USD for three plates and drinks.

UNCOMMON EATERIES: The food scene in Cartagena is satisfying from a dollars and cents perspective, as well as from a culinary point of view. We were pleasantly surprised to find these out-of-the-box spots that served to drive home how special the offering of treats in Cartagena really is.

Beer & Laundry

A particularly interesting surprise was the #1 rated Restaurant in Cartagena on TripAdvisor: Beer & Laundry. Not that we planned to do laundry on a five day trip, but when we heard about the incredible owner, Lilian, who offers the best recommendations in the city, as well as the inexpensive laundry services with quick turnaround and the fridge full of Aguila beer, we had to give it a try. We took a walk from the Ciudad Amurallada to the hip Getsemani neighborhood with a backpack full of laundry and little idea of what to expect.

Beer & Laundry is tiny, welcoming and, frankly, fun. You are invited to sign your name on a map of the world showing where all of their patrons hail from, making you nostalgic for home and feeling like a part of something bigger than yourself all at once. Lilian chatted with us about the current fútbol matches and when we revealed that we hoped to return to Colombia to visit more of the country including Medellín, she provided insight into Medellín saying it is "the city that Colombia would like to present to the world." (Her commentary particularly interested us as avid Narcos viewers). Lilian appeared to us as an ambassador for her country and a voice of trusted knowledge for those who are invested in experiencing it. The clean laundry, just a bonus ;)

La Palettería

In the heat of Cartagena, the ocean breeze seeping over the old wall is a welcome reprieve. Another way to address the warm temps - ice pops! The brightly colored shapes caught our eye through the glass window as we passed this shop, right in the center of historic Cartagena. I made it my personal goal to try every flavor and failed miserably with our limited time but hey, the joy was in the journey. From familiar flavors like Dulce de Leche to mixtures of tropical fruits, the choice is difficult to make. At about 6,000 Colombian Pesos each (2 USD), try a few.

Post Palettería bliss — Post **Palettería bliss**

UN PEQUEÑO CAFÉ: Coming from the ever evolving coffee shop culture of New York City, I was intrigued to experience a city where coffee has been so deeply and historically ingrained. Colombia boasts the third highest annual coffee production in the world and has been in the industry for hundreds of years. While it isn't difficult to find a coffee shop in the city, there are clear winners in experience and quality.

Quiet corner of Getsemani where you can find Cafe del Mural

Café del Mural

If a 5 star TripAdvisor rating is any indication, this shop in the Getsemani district is certainly worth a visit. If it isn't, take it from coffee loving me. The first time we attempted to visit Café del Mural it was closed, however we were more than willing to make a return trip to this street with ornate graffiti walls and beautiful red facade draped in plants. The coffee options range from experimental to traditional. The staff acts as your guide with a thorough process of understanding the coffee experience you are looking for and delivering with accuracy. I drank a delicious coconut coffee concoction and would aim to be more adventurous on my next trip to this hole-in-the-wall gem. Would also gladly spend a day of leisure sipping experimental brews and lounging on their outdoor, secluded patio (pictured above).

Ábaco Libros y Cafe

A block away from our Airbnb but we only made it here for a short time on our last day - and the experience stuck. The cafe/bookstore of my dreams. I brought home a book called “Se habla español ¿Cual?” that deals with the intricacies of the Spanish language as it is spoken in different countries. I also purchased Harry Potter and the Deathly Hollows en español for a certain older brother in the process of repatriating to the US from Spain. While bookstores are my kryptonite, I can objectively say that this one was not only cool but allowed for a further immersion into Colombian culture and, in the end, isn't that the purpose of travel abroad?

HONORABLE MENTION

La Vitrola : Dress code in Cartagena is casual but on a night out to Vitrola be prepared to endure the bouncer's once over as he judges your look. If you do step up the outfit game and are offered entry, this sophisticated establishment will transport you into the company of the city's elite. Try a Coco Loco at the bar and stay late enough to hear the live band. One night here and I had the melodic "Canta y No Llores" stuck in my head for the rest of the trip. ~24 USD for 4 drinks.
María : My most prominent memories of María are the denim napkins (chambray is chic) and the wild decor. Think: tropical florals and roaring tigers on walls. The food was delicious, if relatively expensive for the city, but mostly the ambiance stands out as a reason to visit. Didn't hurt that it was around the corner from our Latin dance class. Our meal cost ~45 USD for two people, no drinks.
Malagana : You will likely read about the Malagana rooftop. It is indeed a great place to relax and enjoy a long drink and tacos to share. That being said, the rooftop is not more than 4 small tables. When we secured the last available two-top I breathed a sigh of relief - in NY you would have had to reserve that table weeks in advance. A lovely way to spend our final Cartagena evening, on this third floor rooftop eye level with adjacent buildings, feeling a part of the city.