A Volcanic Mud Bath and More Unexpected Activities in Cartagena, Colombia

In the five days it takes to race through a New York work week, we checked off quite a few activities in the vibrant town of Cartagena. When we travel as a couple, Joe and I aim to combine our interests and facilitate a trip that is about 80% adventure and 20% relaxation. Laughing as we discuss the reality of this ratio, we both agree that we will relax when we have more time. With limited vacation days, we do our best to optimize the travel experience wherever we are. That may mean spending one day in Paris walking the entire city or trapezing to four different towns in a week in Nicaragua. In Colombia, this philosophy came to life as a mixture of cultural exploration and appreciation of the intrinsic beauty in a short time.

A Mud Bath at El Volcán del Totumo

I had my initial doubts about our half day trip to a mini mountain made of volcanic clay (in fact, the smallest volcano in Colombia), believing it could err on the side of too touristy. At 45,000 COP (15 USD) per person we gave it a shot and were ushered on a strange and exotic experience in a remote location about equidistant between Cartagena and Barranquilla.

Included in the trip was a walk up a rickety staircase, a 20 minute wait atop the volcano, a 15 minute soak in the mud and a wash in the nearby lake. All of the additional amenities would cost the equivalent of 2 USD each with the option to choose: photos taken by one of the guides (the only addition we selected), a bath by the local women once you enter the lake, and a massage while floating in the mud (if uninterested, a no gracias will do).

I do mean floating in the mud. Upon entering the clay there is the unique sensation of not being able to swim or even stand up straight. The volcano itself is about 50 feet deep and the mud has a surprisingly syrupy consistency that provides a buoyant surface so travelers have no choice but to glide around and make quick friends with others as an arm or leg of a neighbor is used for support. The tourism industry in Cartagena is growing fast however specific experiences such as this retain a decidedly authentic feel. There were pieces of plastic and strange small objects floating around with us in the mud, which made me a bit uncertain but everyone seemed to accept as part of the experience. 

The health and healing properties of the mud are still a bit ambiguous but general consensus was that the they do exist. The thick liquid substance dries quickly in the hot Colombian sun so as soon as we exited the pool, we hopped down a second set of steps straight into the Ciénega del Totumo where we immersed ourselves in the cool, blue-brown water and attempted to liberate all of the mud from our bodies. Afterwards, I felt cleansed and my skin appeared as if I had just completed a favorite K-Beauty sheet mask... for the entire body. 

I left appreciative that I chose to wear a black swimsuit (the mud eventually did come out) and to have experienced a ritual that is near to the hearts of the people living in this region. All of the employees at El Totumo were locals and the funds they raise are said to go back into the community. When I spied a tiny hut selling the actual mud from the volcano and realized that the packaging used was unlabeled plastic water bottles, I was content to know we had stumbled into quite an obscure treasure in the sphere of international travel.

Wander the Painted Streets of Getsemani

While I would recommend lodging in the Old City (the access to key points of interest is unparalleled), Getsemani is the coolest spot in town. Think: the Lower East Side in NYC, Le Marais in Paris, San Telmo in Buenos Aires. Permeated with animated graffiti, the colorfully painted buildings lead a pedestrian from street to street. The walls of many buildings are decaying significantly although there is also noticeable construction happening in this area signalling growth. 

In Getsemani, we enjoyed the menú del dia at a local eatery. For budget travel, these meals are ideal. They typically consist of meat or fish, several sides (rice, beans, salad), plantains and a drink. The cost is equivalent to about 5 USD. If only the ceviche wasn't so delicious in Cartagena, we would likely have taken more advantage of this easy meal.

Dance Lessons at Crazy Salsa

My Latin dance career began in high school when the IB Spanish classes learned the Salsa to perform at a world culture fair. Later, the rhythms of tango enthralled me when I lived in Buenos Aires. I couldn't resist the opportunity to explore the Salsa, Bachata and Merengue with Joe. Our class at Crazy Salsa was taught by a Colombian couple who had so much enthusiasm it was almost imperceptible that the entire class was in Spanish! There was one other couple in the class so it was essentially a private lesson and very hands on. We danced for an hour (10 USD each) and now I can joke with Joe at his Dominican family functions that I am going to make him show off his crazy salsa skills.

Hop on the Chiva Bus

During our travels, days typically begin early in the morning and tend to be well-planned with enough room for a bit of necessary spontaneity. So, one day when we heard of the Chiva Bus we were cautiously curious of this open air school bus ride around town that includes unlimited (read: very cheap) alcohol and ends at a discoteca. Being the 20-somethings we are, we thought one strong night out would do us good.

I was pleased that the other tourists on board were exclusively visitors from South and Central American countries; we were the only estadounidenses on the bus. There was a bit of English spoken but mostly we made sense of the guide's directions to dance, share drinks, and notice landmarks in Spanish as we rode the bus around the city and listened to the live band situated in the middle of the vehicle. We did end up wearing coordinating floral looks for our big night out; for Joe's great t-shirt check out the incredibly chic boutique St. Dom in the center of the old city.

An Activity with No Photos: Explore the Mercado Bazurto

Forever in search of a real local activity, we landed on the Mercado Bazurto after hearing many cautious urges to check it out. To validate what we heard: this experience is eye opening to Colombian culture and requires an open mind and go-with-the-flow attitude. The market is massive and a visitor must be comfortable getting a bit lost in the many stalls and small alleys that wind through sections for clothing, meats, produce, housewares, and about any other category of merchandise imaginable. It reminded me of the Grand Bazaar in Istanbul for its sheer endlessness.

We took a cab for 12,000 COP (4 USD) from the Ciudad Amurallada and spent about the equivalent of 1 USD total once inside the market on fresh made plantain chips and whole guava fruit. There was certainly a heightened awareness on our part being that we were the only tourists in the vicinity; to that end, I think it's crucial when traveling to place oneself in environments that cause the traveler to think more critically about how others see them. We didn't take any photos as we passed through the many wares of the Bazurto market, instead focusing on diving into the scene and gaining an understanding of the daily processes that occur. After an hour or so of wandering, seeing more fresh produce and meat than ten Union Square Greenmarkets could hold, we hopped in a cab somewhere on the other side of the market to head back, a bit more enlightened than before.