You might imagine my surprise at the rental car agency in San Diego, fresh off a cross-country flight from New York, when the attendant calmly rattled off the places on the rental form for us to sign. “Sign here that you have insurance… sign here that you are not taking the car to Mexico…” Joe and I shot one another a defeated look upon the prompt realization that the meticulously planned weekend trip from San Diego in which we would cruise across the Mexican border in our sturdy SUV had disappeared.

The idea for a quick jaunt to Mexico during our San Diego vacation came out of my interminable desire to travel abroad. Originally, at the time of planning, I had the expectation that this could be my only trip out of the country in 2019. It’s laughable now, knowing that the spring and summer months will entail a leisure trip to Switzerland tacked on to a business trip to Italy, plus two weeks doing yoga and traveling in the south of Portugal.

Nevertheless, the concept of a trip to Mexico became a full-formed plan when we decide to visit the wine-making region of Valle de Guadalupe in Baja California, a mere two hour’s drive south from downtown San Diego.

After driving the rental car across the US border to Mexico became an unsuitable option (the rental car agent, when we probed whether it would really be a big deal to take the car to Mexico, responded emphatically, “Don’t do it!”) we had to get creative. Having done a bit of research prior to the trip I remembered reading that the quickest option to get across was actually to walk through the border, avoiding traffic wait times that could last hours. At the end of our five days in San Diego we dutifully dropped the rental car off and called a Lyft to the border.

A surprising sight at the border in San Ysidro was the large outlet mall on the US side and the groups of Mexican citizens with shopping bags crossing back into their country. I figured if it was that simple to cross the border for shopping we should have no problem.

The security process going into Mexico was akin to traditional airport security and quickly we found ourselves in Tijuana where we called another Lyft to take us to yet another rental car agency.

This time, in an effort to practice my Spanish and properly assimilate, I planned a monologue which I was confident would lead to car rental success. “Hola, estamos aquí para alquilar un coche… pero, inglés es mejor!” I planned to say, thus establishing that I can speak Spanish but would prefer to transact in my native English for efficiency.

In the hilarious way that travel often forces you into situations in which you must by default test your boundaries, the friendly agent responded in Spanish and proceeded to conduct the entire transaction en español. I racked my brain for the right technical terms related to cars and finances, words that I am unsure ever existed in my Spanish vocabulary even at the height of proficiency.

We communicated through hand gestures and probably 60% mutual understanding until Joe and I found ourselves in a white sedan following signs through Tijuana’s crowded streets towards the Ruta del Vino.

Xecue Vinicola for History & Local Expertise

The initial impression upon entering the main paved road in Valle de Guadalupe, distinct from the many unpaved dirt roads that spun off towards the wineries, was just how many wineries there were. Sign posts dotted every few feet of the drive into town advertising tastings this way and bodegas that way.

I had read about Valle de Guadalupe a fair amount; time and again, whether in Condé Nast Traveler or The New York Times, the wineries that were reported were the same few. I therefore assumed that the selection was somewhat limited in what they were calling the “new Napa”. At the beginning I thought fleetingly that we may have too much time down in the Valle after we hit all of the wineries. This was definitely not the case.

The great thing about a place like this is the unadvertised spots, the ones that aren’t featured in every article in US media. As we spent more time in the region we tried to expand our activities to include more of the local spots.

Our first stop was Xecue Vinicola which we initially had a hard time figuring out how to pronounce (it’s Checué). Immediately we were greeted by the passionate José Luis Hernandez who co-owns the winery with his wife. Our host introduced us to our first wine tasting of the trip, taking us through a white wine, three reds and a rosé. The wines were named in the indigenous language for different feelings, such as “love”.

Later we each ordered a glass of our favorite, mine being Koti’p made from Chardonnay and Chenin Blanc, and took the glasses outside to sit in Adirondack chairs and enjoy the expansive views. I had expected this part of Mexico to reflect the colors of the desert, brown earth tones and sandy landscapes, but in fact it was surprisingly lush. The rolling hills of the Valle reveal every shade of green on the spectrum and the open, cloudy skies offer the perfect backdrop for a warm afternoon of wine tasting.

Deckman's en el Mogor for Dinner Outdoors

Well-reviewed Deckman’s was a must-see; the type of place you read about in every possible article and that all word of mouth recommendations include. I can speak first and foremost of the oysters which were so good that we ordered a second round. We soon found that oysters were a popular food of the Valle and indulged in them as frequently as possible during our stay.

At Deckman’s the food is cooked in a massive outdoor kitchen. Diners enjoy local fares under the twinkle of string lights and with a vineyard view. We ate ceviche and quail as the sun set over the grape vines. Certainly a relaxing dinner atmosphere and plus, who can resist chic denim napkins - a detail I appreciated at María in Cartagena circa 2017.

Vena Cava Winery for a Hip, Artistic Tasting

Our second day in the Valle began with breakfast at La Concina de Doña Esthela (as did the third day - the chilaquiles and Mexican coffee are unbelievable) and then off to Vena Cava, “the hippest winery in Mexico.” Because of this tagline I wondered whether we would be met with throngs of loud millennials but instead, perhaps because it was 11 AM on a Thursday, we were met with near complete quiet in which to enjoy a cold class of wine.

We were the only patrons with the exception of a small film crew taping a promotional video for tourists in the Valle, aptly featuring a relaxed-looking man slowly drinking a glass of local wine. Striking up conversation with the bartender we discussed tourism in Mexico and she shared the merits of less-visited destinations like Mérida. We chatted on the complications that have ensued from over-tourism in Tulum and its affect on the local people living there. Before we left, she gave us a few recommendations for other wineries that I had never read about in my prior research.

Finca Altozano for an Estate Lunch

The path to the vineyard at Finca Altozano

Every which way I turned in Valle de Guadalupe there were breathtaking views. The topography of hills and mountains has long been my preferred scenery thanks to summers in the mountains of Maine and here the hills rolled on and on, changing shape with the light and cloud cover.

For all of the beauty in nature I found Finca Altozano to be the most attractive landscape on our trip. On the other hand, this is the spot we heard the most (loudly spoken) English so it’s clear this is a well-visited location. Nevertheless, the finca embodied so many of the great aspects of the Valle in one package. Lunch included oysters (por supuesto), tuna tostadas and several wandering dogs that belong to the farm which all had been given names and a good home.

The estate is vast and surrounded on all sides by the winding vines of growing grapes. When we visited in April, the plants were only just beginning to creep up their posts, far from their destiny as delicious Valle de Guadalupe wines. Scattered around the property are larger-than-life sized wine barrels, each sporting a set of stairs and an cushioned bench around the circumference of the open top.

We climbed up one of the barrels and for a short time we were hidden away, only able to see the expanse of the vineyard in front of us.

While savoring an ice cream from an on-campus shop we made a leisurely visit to the goats, pigs and chickens that inhabit fenced-in enclosures of the estate. The goats made some intensely foreign sounds and we laughed, soaking up all of the liveliness the Valle had to offer.

La Lomita Winery for Vino on the Terrace

It had grown quite obvious that mid-week in April was not the most popular time to visit the Valle. Even clearer so when we arrived at La Lomita to a nearly silent winery with not a soul, employee or visitor, in sight.

As a lover of quiet places I was not bothered but after 5 minutes of waiting during which we were not greeted but walked freely around the winery, I became concerned. Finally an employee surfaced and we were served a glass of red wine each (white was sold out) to drink on the terrace.

The terrace itself was particularly impressive. Wide open gateways created a picturesque view of the Valle, framed by sculptural light fixtures and colorful murals on the surrounding walls. Looking out over the valley with a glass on wine in hand, no other patrons in sight, I felt as if I lived in this glorious mansion and the view was mine.

Los Nubes Winery for a Farewell Toast

Los Nubes was our last stop and the winery recommended by our bartender at Vena Cava. Situated on the hillside, the road to Los Nubes was a maze to ascend. Once there, we quickly learned of its magic.

The view was unobstructed. So clear were the distinctions between cloud cover on the mountains ahead against sunny spots that the whole view appeared as a saturated postcard. In a way, it was a postcard, a quick snapshot of a short trip to one of the most naturally stunning places I have seen… plus a quite bit of wine.

Valle Girl: A Walk Across the Border to Mexican Wine Country